The ‘Vesper' vodka martini made famous by James Bond was only mentioned
once. It was his pick-me-up of choice when “concentrating” at the casino before
dinner. 3 measures of gin, 1 of vodka and half a measure of Kina Lillet at
tea-time.
'A dry
martini,' he said. 'One. In a deep champagne goblet.'
'Oui, monsieur.''Just a moment. Three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it's ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?'
'Certainly monsieur.' The barman seemed pleased with the idea.
'Gosh, that's certainly a drink,' said Leiter.
Bond laughed. 'When I'm...er...concentrating,' he explained, 'I never have more than one drink before dinner. But I do like that one to be large and very strong and very cold, and very well-made. I hate small portions of anything, particularly when they taste bad. This drink's my own invention. I'm going to patent it when I think of a good name.'
— Casino Royale, Chapter 7: Rouge et Noir
It's a look that screams concentration |
A martini of any kind is all in how you make it. From the temperature
of the drinks to what glass you serve it in. Bond’s usual martini isn’t the
Vesper, but a plain “medium dry” martini, usually with vodka, but almost as
often without. The standard drink, since 1933 and the end of prohibition in
America, is mostly gin with a little vermouth and a couple of olives as
garnish. There’s a lot of variation in what the terms mean, but ‘medium dry’ is usually not much vermouth, ‘dry’ is none or almost none
and ‘very dry’ is absolutely none at all, essentially just cold gin.
When Ace wrote the song he was being awfully civilised. |
Early versions before and during prohibition were half and
half, probably because the gin needed flavouring.
The vermouth used is the dry kind, so it’s confusing that more
dry the drink is said to be the less vermouth is in it.
A vodka martini either has a shot of vodka added, usually about a
third as much as the gin, or can replace the gin entirely, and is a relatively recent
invention dating back to the 1940s and 50s. Martinis of just gin and vermouth
date back to the 1890s. Some folk entirely eschew the vermouth, as did Noel Coward who
described the ideal martini as "filling a glass with gin then waving it in the general direction of Italy".
How terribly witty |
If someone offers you an ‘old-fashioned’ martini they might not be talking about the 19th Century version and might mean gin on the rocks served in an ‘old-fashioned’ glass, or ‘lowball’ glass tumbler. Not to be confused with the cocktail called an 'old-fashioned', of course.
A ‘dirty’ martini includes a splash of brine from the olive
jar.
The Vesper was a rule-breaker but only appeared in Casino
Royale, published in 1953, when adding vodka would still have been a new thing. Martinis
are generally stirred (a shaken martini is called a Bradford) as the tiny bits
of ice that break off in the shaker cloud the drink, and the extra strength of
Gordon’s gin in the 1950s (47%/94-proof, as opposed to today’s 40%/80-proof) would
have been slightly diluted by the melting ice particles. It’s possible Bond
wanted it diluted as he was “concentrating”, but he did order 4 shots of
spirits in one glass, so then again, maybe not. Today lemon peel is fairly
common, but traditionally the garnish would have been olives.
Sinatra says use only 2 olives: "one for you, and one for the beautiful gal that’s about to walk in the door" |
Shaking gets the drink colder than stirring will, essential
for a vodka martini to taste right. Also the vermouth is dissolved more
completely and, if the vodka is made from potatoes rather than grain, it will disperse
the oily residue that forms. Stirring the drink takes longer and Fleming believed it diminished
the flavour, although it’s widely thought the smooth delicate flavours of gin are
spoilt by shaking.
And if the flavour is a bit off just add more product placement Smirnoff. |
Shaking breaks down more of the hydrogen peroxide, increasing
anti-oxidants and aerating the gin,
‘bruising’ it and giving it a slightly sharp or bitter taste, which Bond seems
to have wanted because he "watched as the deep glass became frosted with the pale golden drink, slightly aerated by the bruising of the shaker".
Bond chills his fingers in ice all day so he can hold his glass in a manly way. |
In the books, Bond drinks a total of 19 vodka martinis and 16 ordinary
martinis. As we all know, he prefers them shaken, not stirred and first says the immortal catchphrase
himself in 1964’s Goldfinger. The first person to say it on film was Dr No in
1962. In 1967’s You Only Live Twice, Henderson mistakenly stirs the drink and
Bond, too polite to correct his host, says the drink is perfect.
Two famous gin connoiseurs heading to the London 2012 Olympics opening ceremony, and the moment I became a staunch Royalist. God bless her. |
Martinis of any kind aren’t his usual drink though. In print, Bond drinks a total of over a hundred whiskeys, usually bourbon like creator Ian Fleming who used to
finish off a bottle of gin a day until his doctor advised him to switch to bourbon for his health.
Jimmy Page has always been very health conscious |
In the films Bond favours vodka or champagne – Bollinger or Dom
Perignon. When ordering wine he often chooses Chateau Mouton Rothschild and has a good enough palate to drink a glass of sherry and tell the vintage of the wine used to make
it, as he does in Diamonds Are Forever.
A palate that can still appreciate a £350 bottle of Krug while smoking 70 custom-made extra nicotine cigarettes a day. |
The name ‘martini’ is itself confusing, possibly originating
from the name of Martini vermouth that appeared on the
market in 1863, the vermouth being named after Alessandro Martini, one of the
co-founders of the distilleria that produced it. Or it may be a contraction of
the name of a town in California, Martinez, where some claim the drink was
invented. It’s also possible it was first mixed or popularised by someone
called Martini.
Some points to you if this was your answer. |
These days anything in conical stemware is likely to be
called a martini or at least have –ini tagged on the end of its name. None of
these things are martinis, and the confusion probably comes from the glass
used. A proper martini glass has a large wide bowl that is fully conical all
the way down, while the more common ‘cocktail glass’ is smaller with a narrower
bowl rounded at the bottom.
Bond was clearly too polite, or distracted, to complain about this glass. |
As with all stemware, the glass can be held without
the drinker’s body temperature affecting the drink. The width of the bowl is
important as it allows the subtle aromatics to reach the nose more easily. For
this reason martinis are also served in champagne coupes, while champagne is now rarely served in anything other than
a flute as modern tastes prefer dryness and bubbles over the sweetness popular
in the 1930s when the coupe was in fashion and the end of prohibition meant
champagne flowed freely in the clubs and in towers.
And legally you could pour alcohol all over the floor for yourself again. |
In case you were wondering, Bond, one of the most famous
fictional Englishmen of all time, never drinks tea.
On the first night the
girl had brought him tea. Bond had looked at her severely.
‘I don’t drink tea. I
hate it. It’s mud. Moreover, it’s one of the main reasons for the downfall of
the British Empire. Be a good girl and make me some coffee.’
The girl had giggled and scurried off to
spread Bond’s dictum in the canteen. From then on he had got his coffee. The
expression ‘a cup of mud’ was seeping through the building.
— Goldfinger, Chapter 5: Night Duty
Ah, Roger. You never lost it. |
So what's the fuss about martinis? Isn't is just gin when it comes down to it? I'm not a drinks expert, never worked in a bar, don't even drink much these days, but I do appreciate elegance and style, and the martini has those things when done right. As someone once said:
"I'm not talking a cup of cheap gin splashed over an ice cube. I'm talking satin, fire and ice; Fred Astaire in a glass; surgical cleanliness, insight.. comfort; redemption and absolution. I'm talking MARTINI!"
Anonymous